It was a busy summer at Robinson Bluff with the addition of many new rock climbing routes. Despite the heat, our awesome route setters have been scouting, cleaning, drilling, glueing and setting. Next time you’re at Robinson Bluff, check out these new climbs and boulder problems:
New Routes at the Cryptic Wall
Take the stairs down and the trail up river to the Cryptic Wall, which is located just south of the Lilly Wall. Step up along the lower trail to access the base of the routes. The right side of the wall starts with an obvious left-facing dihedral. As you look left, the rock’s reddish hue fades to white. Four new routes take the Cryptic Wall’s total number to nine, which vary in difficulty from 5.7 to 5.11 and reach up to 110’ tall.
The new routes, Redneck Mother and Snake Farm, are both 5.10a and just under 100’ tall. You’ll need a 60 meter rope and a bunch of draws to get to the top…if you can make it past the cruxy fourth bolt.
Venture left to two new cruiser routes with timely names: I ❤️ Ukraine and Bummer of a Summer. A 70 meter rope and some alpine draws are suggested. Check out Mountain Project for the full list of routes at the Cryptic Wall.
New Routes at the Legacy Wall
The more densely bolted Legacy Wall has a total of 17 routes, ranging from 5.6 to 5.11 and from 35’ to 100’ tall. This long, scoop-shaped wall has a mix of steep, shaded climbing during the summer with plenty of winter morning sunlight.
Legacy Falls (5.10c/d, 60’) was the first bolted line, and now, Bloody Mary and Proud Mary are the most recent. Located at the northern end of the Legacy Wall, Proud Mary (5.7, 55’) hugs the right side of the buttress. It got its name from the classic CCR song, of course.
Bloody Mary (5.10a, 65’) starts on a ledge above the River Boat Buttress (5.7, 55’) about 70 feet above the trail along the base. It got its name from the experience that is route setting. When using a hammer and chisel to chip away at the choss, accidents sometimes happen resulting in bloody fingers and very sore hands.
Check out Mountain Project for the long list of routes at the Legacy Wall.
Bouldering at North End Boulders
The North End Boulders are furthest north along the bluff line (climber's right of the Grand Staircase). The bouldering areas are divided into groups of boulders or isolated rock exposure. If you’ve climbed Crisscross (V2-3) on the Wave Wall and want to try a more difficult variation, start under roof on the undercling and right hand pinch. Go up to the sharp right hand and move into Crisscross. The extension is called Grapevine (V5-6).
Interested in bolting at Robinson Bluff? Shoot Bill an email at firstname.lastname@example.org.